Between the adventures of Breton butter and buckwheat crêpes, comparing Kouign Amann and different styles of mussels, there was yet another beauty to be discovered during our short trip to Brittany: the landscapes along the Côte d’Emeraude (Emerald Coast).  Eugène Herpin (1860-1942), author of numerous books on the history and archaeology of Saint-Malo, invented the northern coast’s nickname, admiring the sea’s bright green color as he saw it.  We nodded our heads to him, even if we would have went with a shade a bit more blue, but nonetheless enjoyed the beautiful views off the winding coastal roads.  The granite stone houses, bright blue shutters, multitudes of fishing boats, herds of cows grazing off the sides of the roads, attractive coves and tiny harbors… all made for quite the picturesque road trip.  So enjoy the ride below, passing through Cancale, Dinard and Saint-Malo.

I have to say though, it isn’t always sun and blue skies in that part of town.  Our arrival in Cancale saw Brittany’s more infamous weather – foreboding skies, cool winds and – luckily short-lived – downpours.  But something about the darkness of the sky, the cloud formations and the fishing boats resting on their sides on the sea bottom, the tide still far away, was simply magnificent.

Cultivation of mussels in Cancale bay

It may be hard to believe, but this picture to the left was actually taken in the same spot as the above picture.  All that activity working in the oyster beds took place in the morning when it was low tide.  Just hours later, it seemed like a brand new day, in a new city – the sun was shining, the tide was in, and you would never know that a whole other world below the surface even exists. 

Something else to note in this picture is all the white along the shore.  Not rocks, not ordinary seashells… it’s all, 100% oyster shells!  Mostly from people buying their dozens of oysters and following the market vendors’ rules to toss the shells over the sea wall when they’re done!  Quite a sight to see.

Saint-Malo

Taking a dip at sundown in Saint-Malo

Tags: Brittany, France, Photography