Seeing that today is Halloween, it seems rather timely that I’d want to write about candy.  I don’t mean that sweet sugary candy corn that I happen to adore, nor those mini individually wrapped chocolate bars that children will watch drop into their big trick or treat bags or plastic pumpkins.  I’m not thinking of American candy at all, even if we Americans like to think of Swedish fish as our own.  You know those classic, red, chewy candies shaped like fish, with the word “Swedish” embossed on them, that stick to your teeth no matter what you do?  Well, I’m actually thinking of the Swedish fish that the Swedes proudly call their own.  Along with a diverse range of candy, one that won’t remain unknown for long, thanks to Swede, Lena Rosen.

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If you’ve read my last few posts, you might be thinking – obsessed with macarons?! You’ve read about macarons in New York City, and you’ve read about macarons in Paris.  So yes, maybe a little obsessed.  But there are other things in life too.  I agree. Like chocolate. So thank goodness that my trip to Paris coincided with the 14th annual Salon du Chocolat. Ok, so maybe it wasn?t a coincidence. I have a long relationship with the Salon, having visited it in Paris many years back when it was a very high-end event on a smaller scale, held at the Carrousel du Louvre. I also helped run the media relations for the Chocolate Show in New York for several years. As the liaison between every exhibitor and the press, I had to know (and taste!) every product at the show.  Not a bad job!

It is true that on my way to Paris, I was still thinking about macarons I had tasted in New York City.  But I will also admit that it did not take too long for me to shift gears and focus on the Parisian gâteaux here once I arrived.  And so, as is usually the case, I went right to one of my favorite pastry shops in the city – which is hands down one of the capital’s most attractive too.  Pain de Sucre is an absolute eye-catcher on rue Rambuteau – a popular street in Paris that either leads you to the funky, unmissable Centre Pompidou and bustling area of Les Halles in one direction, or going the other way, transforms into the Marais’ high end, fashionable rue des Francs-Bourgeois.  You may just stay put though – you’ll be immediately drawn in by the beautiful, tall glass jars in the window, filled with big, square, fluffy marshmallows.  

The first thing I do is check out the day’s flavors, which always include a colorful range of fruits and spices – you can see to the left dark chocolate coated in coconut, saffron/Piment d’Espelette and Campari.  On other visits of mine, there have been such flavors as Matcha green tea, rose water, quince and chicory, the latter being a favorite of mine.  Light and satisfying, they’re almost sponge-like in texture.  That’s a good thing.  

Their exquisite square tarts are also a good thing; the fruits lined up in impeccable rows and glistening on display.  But they are not just pretty to look at; they are incredibly delicious as well.

But back to those macarons…
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Aside from a wedding to attend (this time it’s of a Portuguese/Kyrgyzstan couple outside of Paris), professional meetings and plans with family and friends, my visits to Paris inevitably follow the same theme: the never-ending search for sweets.  I map out my very own trail of favorites, brand new spots to visit, old haunts with new items or seasonal offerings, and the rare find that I just fall into.  Always on the lookout for addresses that you, my readers, will want to know about, and for the sweets definitely not to be missed when you’re in Paris too.

Having spent just 48 hours in Paris so far, it’s already been quite an enjoyable dose of Paris Sweets. I’ve had master boulanger Eric Kayser’s version of Le Cookie, the chocolate chip cookie being my number one most missed item since leaving the States.  I also left the bakery with my usual assortment of his divine breads that always grace my breakfast table – Pain aux Céreales, Pain aux Figues and Pain Ecureuil (yes, that does mean squirrel bread; it has moist prunes and hazelnuts) – all alongside a big bowl of café au lait, good salted butter from Brittany and a trusty jar of Nutella too.  I’ve passed by the mouthwatering windows of pastry shops Gérard Mulot and Pain de Sucre, and the just week-old chocolate shop Pralus on the same street as the latter, making that block quite the destination!  I’ve picked up little treats as I go along of course, like a box of chocolate covered marshmallows at Belgian chocolatier Pierre Marcolini or a mini palmier at pastry shop/caterer Carton, with no offense of course to my all time favorite palmier a few doors down at La Bonbonnerie de Buci.

I’ll be back to share my sweet adventures (with all addresses of course!), and perhaps a savory one or two as well, including a fantastic dinner at much talked about bistro Le Hide near l’Arc de Triomphe.  And who knows what will be served at that wedding, such an interesting mix of cultures — and cuisines!  So I hope I’ve whet your appetite.  Stay tuned for more…

In just a few hours, I’ll be hopping aboard the TGV (high speed train) for yet another trip to Paris; no complaints here.  And while I’d normally be dreaming of the different macarons I’ll be enjoying at both Pierre Hermé and at Ladurée, I find myself thinking back to macarons I had … in New York City.

It was after lunch at Ben’s Kosher Deli with a friend of mine, our ritual when I am in town, when I told her we had to pass by 36th Street, for I had heard about a little café specializing in macarons (the small French delicacy, not the big coconut macaroons that are often served during Jewish holidays).  It’s a rather unappealing area – imagine the excitement of the garment industry alongside hordes of tourists, piling through Macy’s and heading to and from Penn Station.  Yet on this nondescript block off of 7th Avenue, a big white and pink sign with a large black arrow points you to the tiny French MacarOn Café (no typo here, that’s their logo).  On the day I visited, another sign was near the door, handwritten in big pink letters, “Happy Macaron’s Day.”  This suits the mood of the place perfectly.
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The changing colors, the leaves falling from the trees and hiding the sidewalks as they gather throughout the day, the omnipresent chestnut stands – it is unquestionable what season it is here in Zürich.  In my opinion, the most exciting place to see the arrival of autumn is at the market.  Tables full of bright summer berries, juicy peaches and nectarines have been replaced by a panoply of root vegetables and a dozen varieties of apples.  Pumpkins and funny shaped squash take center stage.  The colors are just as vibrant, the produce just as fresh, a new selection simply exciting as ever.  Restaurants are posting their new fall menus, and home cooks are taking advantage of the new fruits and vegetables available. 

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I have to admit: I have a soft spot for miniature versions of things: baby Puma sneakers, mini cupcakes, bite-size éclairs, soup served in shot glasses, and my trusty mini whisk key chain.  So I suppose it’s no surprise that I got all excited when I discovered a new mini fruit at the market the other day in Zürich.

Mini kiwis !

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Autumn is here!

Peterskirche, Zürich

Autumn is here.  Not just because of all of those chestnut stands spotted around town, but because of the gorgeous palette of colors that now dot the horizon.  There’s a subtle crispness in the air, letting us all know that winter is not far away.  The wind blows through the trees and their leaves fall like confetti.  They flutter about, making sounds like a bowl of Rice Krispies that never gets soggy – Snap Crackle and Pop all day long.  Walking through the dry leaves is like crushing potato chips beneath my feet.  I love the sounds and the colors of the fall season, and I’m especially looking forward to going to the market, to see what new produce has taken center stage.  I’m imagining multicolored carrots and squash with fun shapes and names, various root vegetables and real hearty breads.  Stay tuned.

For now, a small taste of autumn in Switzerland – a few of the colorful landscapes in three different cities, Zürich, Kempraten and Zug.  Next up will be a real taste for me, autumn at the market!

Kempraten, Switzerland

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Sometimes when you return home from vacation, it seems as if nothing has changed.  It’s like you never left.  Other times, it’s quite the opposite, and you feel like you’ve been gone for ages.  When coming back to Zürich after 10 days away, we certainly felt the latter- time did anything but stand still.  There wasn’t a trace of summer for us to grab on to.  Just as many people were outside as during those hot summer months, strolling along the lake, sitting on benches, reading or picnicking with friends.  But this time, they had on long coats, scarves wrapped around their necks, and brown paper cones in their hands.  Brown paper cones?

It’s autumn, and autumn in Switzerland can mean only one thing… heissi Marroni. Hot chestnuts of course!

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Jewish holidays and food.  One simply goes with the other.  This is indisputable.  Certain symbolic foods and/or ingredients are sought out on special occasions, while others are avoided.  Food and observance are unconditionally linked, and it is often the case that we are either feasting or fasting, most likely the former.  And so, with the Eve of Yom Kippur at sundown on Wednesday, October 8th, we feast… before we fast (with a big feast to follow of course!).    

The final meal prior to sunset on Erev Yom Kippur provides us with the physical strength needed for the 25 hour fast of Yom Kippur.  The meal still needs to be somewhat light and easy to digest, and foods such as chicken and soup are common.  For those of you who observe this holiday, I wish you all an easy fast.

At the table where I’ll be eating tonight, the menu is as follows:

Matzoh Ball Soup

Homemade challot (traditional braided breads) served with honey

Chicken, boiled beef

Vegetables from soup – cabbage, carrots, leeks

Thinly sliced carrots cooked with honey and golden raisins

Fruit Salad (made with at least one dozen fruits, including fresh figs, mango, passion fruit, strawberries, grapes, mini kiwis, pineapple, orange and pears.  Red and golden raspberries added when serving)

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