You may have guessed that you’d be seeing pumpkins on the blog this week, with Halloween real soon and my affinity for markets, which are just overflowing with gorgeous pumpkins this month. Around this time last year, I was baking my pumpkin chocolate chip cake, a recipe I make all year long, thanks to my trusty cans of Libby purée from the States.  But from now on, I’m going can-free. Jack McNulty (gastronomic encyclopedia) and his wife Silvia Gautschi McNulty of Laughing Lemon Food & Wine, give fun, educational and delicious cooking classes here in Zürich (Oerlikon).  I signed up as soon as I could for the October pumpkin class (recipes below).  One of the few occasions Jack and Silvia color-coordinate their outfits!

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I love the moment I return home to Zürich after travels and am immediately reminded how much I love this city.  Coming back to Zürich this week, I had this same familiar surge of adoration and comfort – and keep in mind, I had just left Paris!  Another city that holds a spot near and dear to my heart and of course it was difficult to leave.  But if there was anything that could soothe my missing Paris, it was this: the new Ladurée boutique was open in Zürich’s old town!  A little taste of Paris is now never far from home.

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With family and friends living in and around Paris, I visit the City of Lights several times a year. But there is one trip that stands out from the rest. My annual pilgrimage in the fall for the Salon du Chocolat. Yes, I take an almost 5 hour train ride to visit this show. But then again, it’s no ordinary food show. We’re talking almost 14,000 square meters (150,000 square feet!) of floor, one stand after another, showing their finest products – the very best in the chocolate world today. Free samples abound.

On my train ride to Paris, after going through my endless lists of patisseries and boulangeries that I would visit during the few days leading up to the salon (that I’ll share soon too), I also went through my notes from last year’s Salon du Chocolat. It felt like it was just yesterday – I could still taste the masterful pairing of buckwheat flour and salted butter by Henri Le Roux.  I could picture the hot pink candied nuts of François Pralus’ signature Praluline and wondered if they would be baking at the show once again (oui !). I pictured my favorite discovery last year – Les Gayettes du Pays Noir from Belgium, as well as the meringues as big as rugby balls from Le Grenier à Pain, hoping they would both return to the show this year (unfortunately not, 0 for 2).

For the 15th year, the show was just as grand and impressive as previous years. (more…)

If you are familiar with New York City’s and San Francisco’s Fancy Food Show or Paris’ Salon Saveurs, then you can may have a pretty good idea of what Zurich’s Gourmesse is like.  130 exhibitors fill two floors of the city’s Kongresshaus – stand upon stand with gourmet treats to taste, passionate people behind them, all willing to answer your questions (if you speak German or Italian, that is).  Each year a country and Swiss canton are highlighted. 2009 (the show’s 15th year) is all about Italy and the canton Thurgau. You’ll leave with a big bag of brochures and a tummy filled with tastes of cheeses, sausages, chocolates, savory spreads and plenty of wine, plus bags of fresh pasta to make for dinner.  If you’re in Zürich this weekend (the show’s last day is Monday, October 12th), put aside a few hours to simply roam the floors, and be sure to check the day’s schedule.  There are lectures, workshops and cooking demonstrations by an impressive list of chefs and food personalities.  I made sure not to miss Rolf Mürner (below) of Swiss Pastry Design, knowing that he’d be creating an absolute beauty of a dessert plate.  I was not disappointed.  All sorts of interesting techniques and ingredients were explained… if only my German were better to catch all the details.  Still fascinating to watch though – and taste!  You’ll see his composed dessert below and that funky pail of liquid nitrogen that made for quite a spectacle. Fans of Wylie Dufresne (of wd~50) or Heston Blumenthal (of The Fat Duck) will be familiar with the technique of using liquid nitrogen (at around -300 degrees Fahrenheit!) to create frozen desserts – it’s so cold that when in contact with air, it turns to gas.  It looks more like a witch’s brew under a spell.  Whisked with a fruit purée, the end result is… ice cream.

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Arriving at Zürich’s main train station after almost two weeks in the more remote northern regions of Portugal, Olivier and I were prepared for a drastic change from what we became accustomed to.   We had been driving through the isolated and magnificent parks of Portugal, protected areas with striking landscapes.   We passed fields and fields of craggly olive trees, vineyards ready for harvest and chestnut trees just planted or overflowing with fruit.   We visited markets with live chickens and rabbits, alternated meals between bacalhau (salted cod), sardines, kid and smoked meats, always followed (and preceded) by egg yolk-laden pastries.   We savored the relaxed Latino rhythm of life there, people overflowing with warmth and generosity and villages where time has stood still.

One foot outside of the Zürich train station, and I immediately yelped – they’re back!  Chestnuts are back!   (more…)