A sweet pilgrimage for a site named, MyKugelhopf ?  That can mean only one place…  Alsace !  This region in France by the German border is known (and disputably so, as all food history goes) as the birthplace of the kugelhopf.  To be even more precise, that would take us to the town of Ribeauvillé, in the heart of Alsatian vineyards. Even though their annual “Fête du Kougelhopf” was unfortunately canceled this year (sadly not enough bakers wanted to participate), I didn’t let that stop me from heading to the source.  Alsace happens to be one of my favorite regions in France.  So when friends from New York told us they had a wedding to attend in Brussels, I jumped at the chance to see them while in Europe and a prime opportunity for them to discover one of my favorite places.  And to track down the best kugelhopf, of course.  I told them to take a train to Strasbourg and we’d pick them up there…

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I would love to say that I have tasted every kugelhopf in Colmar, and thus can assure you of where you’ll find the very best.  But I’ve still got my work cut out for me.  There’s an awful lot of kugelhopf around, in just about every pastry shop window in town!

In Colmar’s historical center, while you stroll up and down the winding cobblestone streets, admiring the architecture of the old wooden houses and their colorful facades, you can also pop into any number of shops to pick up some kitschy Alsatian souvenirs, as well as earthenware molds in assorted shapes, sizes and colors.  You’ll pass boulangeries and patisseries with bretzels hanging on wooden sticks on the counter, linzer tartes, aniseed cookies… and oh those kugelhopf.

With impeccable rows of kugelhopf, mini kugelhopf (above), langhopf and other assorted goodies in the window, it’s no wonder there are always people ogling in front of Patisserie Gilg.  I recommend actually going in to get a closer look, for a taste or two, and especially for a lively discussion with the friendly people behind the counter. The day I was there, it was Nicolas and Karine, always smiling and ready to share information about the history behind the Gilg family (3rd generation now), each and every gorgeous pastry and individual chocolate, or the difference between the Alsatian specialities, kugelhopf and langhopf.  Here’s your answer: the langhopf, while made of the same yeast dough as the kugelhopf and baked in an earthenware mould, only elongated, also has hazelnuts, walnuts, cinnamon and is covered in cinnamon sugar.   

It all started in 1936, when Paul Gilg took over his siblings’ pastry shop in the Alsatian town of Munster.  His grandson Thierry now carries on the tradition, with a second address in Colmar, maintaining the high standards of quality set forth by his grandfather.  The Colmar shop is bright and modern inside, and recipes follow a mix of tradition and innovation.  The Cube is one of Paul Gilg’s creations, and still a popular item, made with milk chocolate, chocolate cream and hazelnuts. Thierry Gilg became a member of Relais Desserts International with his own creation, Jade: milk chocolate mousse infused with Matcha tea and a soft almond biscuit.  

And then there are the chocolates: ganaches, pralines and caramels – each an excellent play on flavor and texture.  I asked Nicolas to tell me about the chocolates, thinking I would get a few to try.  But with all of his irresistible descriptions, I ended up with almost every one, including Le Petit Munster.  No, it’s not a chocolate with cheese in it, but it still has a strong flavor.  It’s made with Marc de Gewurztraminer, the Alsatian Eaux-de-vie that some compare to an Italian grappa.  

I love that you can buy a box of these Petit Munster chocolates in a classic round, wooden cheese box.  I think I might have to go to the Munster shop for a box – a perfect gift item with a bit of fun to it.  I can already see my French mother-in-law thrilled at the idea of cheese brought back from Alsace – only for her face to light up when she sees chocolates inside!  Oh, and while I’m there, I suppose I can pick up another kugelhopf or two… for me.

Patisserie Gilg

http://www.patisserie-gilg.com/

The current theme of the blog is near and dear to my heart.  You’ll be reading about Colmar, one of my favorite cities in Europe, and none other than… kugelhopf !  It was years ago, in the colorful and charming town of Colmar, that I first discovered kugelhopf, a yeast cake with raisins and almonds baked in a crown-like earthenware dish.  In the Alsatian region of France, Colmar is equidistant between Strasbourg and Basel, under 2 hours from Zürich by car, and about 5 hours from Paris.  It feels neither French nor Swiss, having strong influences from Germany and thus an overall atmosphere unique to Alsace.  

Colmar is known for many things: for being the capital of Alsatian wine, for its well preserved old town full of multi-colored timber framed houses and small canals, and for its architectural landmarks.  It’s mainly for the rainbow of houses that I adore it. But step into a local restaurant or winstub (similar to the neighborhood bistro), and you’ll see that Colmar has yet even more to offer: flammekueche (tartes flambées), choucroute, baeckoffe (Alsatian stew, which tradition says housewives would let slowly cook in the baker’s oven while they did the washing), and Glühwein (German for hot mulled wine).  And most importantly, kugelhopf in every pastry shop window in town.  

Above left is a Tarte Flambée Strasbourgeoise, a variant of the typical thin crust tart, topped with creme fraîche, bacon and onions.  This one was made with fromage blanc as well, and piles of sauerkraut on top.  You can’t get much more Alsatian than that in a dish.  Above right is Choucroute Garnie, another dish omnipresent in Alsace, which consists of a hefty bowl of sauerkraut hiding beneath an assortment of salted meats, sausages and potatoes.  It’s the perfect lunch to warm you up before a (very) long stroll around town, to admire the architecture, fall into the many boutiques, photograph the picturesque scenes, and work up a new appetite for an afternoon kugelhopf.

And speaking of which, you’ll next read about a pastry shop to put on top of your list for Colmar.  Many say they’ve got the best kugelhopf around.  I tasted it, along with their chocolates, individual cakes and cookies, to see for myself…