Slow Food Market Returns to Zürich

Friday, November 16th, 2012

Tables and tables of “slow food” approved products once again filled the Messe event space in Zürich.  Recognizable by its logo of a snail, Slow Food continues its mission of “good, clean and fair” (bon, propre et juste / gut, sauber und fair), promoting food that satisfies the senses, is environment-friendly, health-friendly too, is at prices both accessible to consumers and fair to workers, and most of all, is fresh, local and delicious !

It was a true feast for the eyes and taste buds at the inaugural Slow Food Market in 2011, when I discovered (and tasted !) so many new products from various regions of Switzerland.  One year later, some of those items are now cupboard staples in my home.  So back to the market I went to see what other delicious finds I would make, with my eye on the sweet stands, but of course.

Slow Food Market 2012, Zürich, SwitzerlandSlow Food Market 2012, Zürich, Switzerland Read the rest of this story >>

Summer Holidays are Over… for Swiss Cows

Saturday, October 1st, 2011

Over the past few years living in Zürich, there have been innumerable “only in Switzerland” moments. Local festivals come to mind, especially Stoos Schwinget, the country’s national sport, where large men dressed in sky blue Edelweiss-clad shirts hold on to each other’s shorts and wrestle to the ground, within a circle of saw dust. (There’s rock throwing contests, alphorn players and yodeling there too.) The hot air balloon festival in Château d’Oex is a must see, the sky filled with enormous, colorful balloons against a breathtaking backdrop of snow-covered Alps. Yet another jaw-dropping visual is White Turf in St. Moritz, when dark, handsome horses race on a frozen lake.  It’s simply spectacular.  And finally, I can now add Alpabfahrt to that list of unforgettable Swiss events. Alpabfahrt ?  Time for Swiss cows to come home; summer vacation on the Alps is over.

Alpabfahrt, Schüpfheim, SwitzerlandAlpabfahrt, Schüpfheim, Switzerland

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Revisiting St Jean de Luz in France’s Basque Country

Thursday, July 28th, 2011

Having devoured finished all the sweets I brought back from France’s Basque country, I am now savoring each and every one of my hundreds of photos taken during my recent trip there.  And already planning my next trip back.  So many villages visited (Aïnhoa, Espelette, St Jean Pied de Port, Itxassou, Sare…), many that I can’t wait to revisit, and yet so many more to discover (Guéthary, St Pée sur Nivelle, Bidart, St Etienne de Baigorry…).  My favorite, which will always be on the list, no matter how many times I’ve been back… is St Jean de Luz.

St Jean de Luz, Basque Country, FranceSt Jean de Luz, Basque Country, France Read the rest of this story >>

Say Cheese

Monday, January 18th, 2010

Château d’Oex’s International Hot Air Balloon festival is rapidly approaching, and some of you may be making  plans to head that way.  Going for the weekend is a wonderful excuse to visit the beautiful region of Gruyère, especially the charming, medieval village of the same name – even if spelled differently (Gruyères).  You’ll take 200 photos of the most photogenic hot air balloons, rising high against a backdrop of the breathtaking Swiss Alps, their colors easy to spot against the clean blanket of pure white snow. Then perhaps you’ll visit Gruyères- its storybook château and one pedestrian street, and then stop in a café for a hot chocolate, as well as the region’s famously rich double cream and meringues.  But you must be saying to yourself now… isn’t the region more well known for… cheese?!

La Maison du Gruyère, SwitzerlandLa Maison du Gruyère, Switzerland

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Fresh Pasta, Creamy Gelato and Liquid Nitrogen

Saturday, October 10th, 2009

If you are familiar with New York City’s and San Francisco’s Fancy Food Show or Paris’ Salon Saveurs, then you can may have a pretty good idea of what Zurich’s Gourmesse is like.  130 exhibitors fill two floors of the city’s Kongresshaus – stand upon stand with gourmet treats to taste, passionate people behind them, all willing to answer your questions (if you speak German or Italian, that is).  Each year a country and Swiss canton are highlighted. 2009 (the show’s 15th year) is all about Italy and the canton Thurgau. You’ll leave with a big bag of brochures and a tummy filled with tastes of cheeses, sausages, chocolates, savory spreads and plenty of wine, plus bags of fresh pasta to make for dinner.  If you’re in Zürich this weekend (the show’s last day is Monday, October 12th), put aside a few hours to simply roam the floors, and be sure to check the day’s schedule.  There are lectures, workshops and cooking demonstrations by an impressive list of chefs and food personalities.  I made sure not to miss Rolf Mürner (below) of Swiss Pastry Design, knowing that he’d be creating an absolute beauty of a dessert plate.  I was not disappointed.  All sorts of interesting techniques and ingredients were explained… if only my German were better to catch all the details.  Still fascinating to watch though – and taste!  You’ll see his composed dessert below and that funky pail of liquid nitrogen that made for quite a spectacle. Fans of Wylie Dufresne (of wd~50) or Heston Blumenthal (of The Fat Duck) will be familiar with the technique of using liquid nitrogen (at around -300 degrees Fahrenheit!) to create frozen desserts – it’s so cold that when in contact with air, it turns to gas.  It looks more like a witch’s brew under a spell.  Whisked with a fruit purée, the end result is… ice cream.

Gourmesse, Zürich, SwitzerlandGourmesse, Zürich, SwitzerlandGourmesse, Zürich, SwitzerlandGourmesse, Zürich, Switzerland

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Welcome to Appenzell – Heads Up !

Friday, August 7th, 2009

With family visiting us from France for a few days, we wanted to pick a destination that was as Swiss as we could find.  During our past year in Zürich, talking to locals and travelers and reading about the different regions in Switzerland, all signs pointed to Appenzell.  Narrow, picturesque streets, delicious Swiss delicacies, mountains in the background and a traditional way of life.

Just south of St Gallen, near our Brunch on the Farm for the National Day, we found ourselves looking up at pure green, rolling hills, undulating into the distance with grazing cows, farm stands, barns and only tractors on the roads.  The tiny town of Appenzell was set against this scenery, just as beautiful with its painted houses, decorative facades and abundance of colorful Swiss flags seemingly filling the streets.

Appenzell, SwitzerlandAppenzell, SwitzerlandAppenzell, SwitzerlandAppenzell, Switzerland

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The Nun at the Bottom of the Pot

Thursday, February 12th, 2009

After our marathon of fondue in the Swiss region of Gruyères, I was determined to take a break from melted cheese.  I returned home to Zürich and baked my usual sweet treats and indulged in different chocolates, as is normally the case.  But when we went skiing for the weekend in the French Alps, it was fondue again!  After all, what’s après-ski without fondue?

Skiing, Les Contamines, French Alps

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Half and Half, But Both Halves Cheese

Sunday, February 1st, 2009

While spending time in the Swiss region of Gruyère, it wasn’t very difficult to know what to order at meals. As the saying goes, “when in Rome…,” right?!  So it was meringues à la crème double for dessert, and for savory, Gruyère cheese in all its glory.  Especially fondue!

It was hard to find a restaurant without fondue on the menu.  But you’re not completely off the hook on making decisions – you still have to choose which fondue! You’ll find different combinations of cheese or even some including other ingredients, like mushrooms, tomatoes or herbs.  One place we ate at actually had fondue made with Champagne.  Whatever the case, for every city or region or even country that you visit, you will find just as many answers for what is the “traditional” recipe for fondue.  Swiss versus French. Beaufort versus Appenzeller. Kirsch, nutmeg, cayenne pepper, lemon juice… what else to add?  As long as you are in Gruyères, Switzerland though, what is true and authentic is unanimous. Moitié-Moitié, the half and half fondue, reigns.  

A good thing about the variety of fondue on one menu is that whether you are 2 or 10 people at the table and you all want fondue, you don’t have to agree on which one.  Just get fondue for one person!  It has become somewhat of a norm for us, but I will admit that individual fondue was a funny concept when we first arrived in Switzerland.  I had never seen it before, but it is quite common for people to order single portions.  And why not?  Everything is the same, it just comes in a small pot.  Quite logical in fact.  So one time, I had my fondue with chanterelles, and my husband had his without. Another fondue during our short stay was the obligatory classic recipe, the half and half – and this one was in a pot for two.  I am sure you all guessed one of the halves: Gruyère cheese, of course.  The other: Vacherin Fribourgeois.  Vacherin is another mild cow cheese that melts extremely well, and lends a thick, creamy texture, as well as a very pleasant taste, to the fondue.  I don’t mean to take sides, but I will be honest and say that this was my favorite fondue yet.  It was much softer in taste, with a less pronounced flavor of alcohol, and still irresistibly creamy – as most fondues tend to be.

Le Chalet, Gruyères Le Chalet, Gruyères

Below you will see the classic recipe for the Moitié-Moitié.  Feel free to try it at home and practice your fondue etiquette, which is very important!  Always keep in mind a few things, and you’ll be a pro in no time.  First, make sure your piece of bread is real secure on your fondue fork – people have all sorts of funky rules and traditions about how to handle the person whose bread falls in the pot!  Next, don’t just dip your fork in the cheese, but stir it around a few times (some people will say in a figure eight), so that the fondue keeps its creamy consistency and does not separate.  Lastly, it’s not recommended to drink cold water with your fondue, as this may cause the hot cheese in your stomach to congeal.  Wine would be a much better option.  Once you’ve mastered the traditional half and half recipe below, you may even start experimenting on your own with different cheeses.  But if you’re calling it a Moitié-Moitié, and telling anyone in the region of Gruyère about it, I’d be sure to make sure one of those halves is Gruyère!

 

Fondue Moitié-Moitié (Half and Half)

Serves 4

1 garlic clove, cut in half
3.5 cups (400 grams) Gruyère cheese, grated
4 Tblsp cornflour
1.5 cups (3.5 dl) white wine
1 Tblsp fresh lemon juice
3.5 cups (400 grams) Vacherin Fribourgeois cheese, grated
2-3 Tblsp (3?4 cl) Kirsch

Rub the interior of your fondue pot with the garlic clove.  Add the Gruyère and the cornflour to the pot, followed by the wine and lemon juice.  Bring to a boil, stirring constantly.  Reduce heat, and add the Vacherin, while continuing to stir until smooth. The fondue should no longer boil.  Add the Kirsch.  Keep the fondue warm, with the pot sitting on its burner.

Serve with bite-sized pieces of bread, small boiled potatoes, gherkins (cornichons) and pickled onions.

About Gruyeres (the Village, that is)

Tuesday, January 27th, 2009

Gruyères

This past weekend we went on a road trip about 2 hours southwest of Zürich, and found ourselves in the very heart of cheese country - Gruyère of course!  But wait, shouldn’t that be Gruyères as it is written in the above photo?  Truth is, we drove all around la Gruyère, stayed in Gruyères and ate way too much of le Gruyère!  There must be a typo somewhere in there, no?  After being terribly confused myself, having read articles on the region and the cheese in both English and French, I couldn’t figure out who was making the error.  There was no mistake at all.  It turns out there are in fact 2 spellings and even 2 different genders in French.  Here’s a breakdown: Gruyères (plural with an ‘s’) is the name of the village that’s situated in the region of La Gruyère (feminine singular), where you can find the cheese that goes by the same name, Le Gruyère (masculine singular).  Any which way you spell it, it’s a picturesque, medieval town in a beautiful region, and one delicious cheese!  Which, by the way, has no holes… but more on that later!

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Choose Your Clothing Wisely

Sunday, November 23rd, 2008

Winter is officially here, and the temperature dropped a great deal this weekend.  We had our first snowfall since being here in Zürich.  And my parents arrived from New York to visit us.  All signs pointed to one thing… fondue!

For our very first fondue in Switzerland, we chose a charming restaurant in the old town of Zürich, boasting the cuisine of the French-speaking region in the Southwest, the Vaud.  Nestled among downtown’s old buildings and cobblestone streets, Le Dézaley sits in a little cul de sac off of the main road, where the (very) punctual and clean blue trams run day and night.  The dominating towers of Grossmünster Church soar above the restaurant, with its powerful bells ringing throughout the neighborhood.  But inside, you hear only the loud clamor of clinking glasses and boisterous laughter should anyone drop a piece of bread in the fondue pot, totally against the rules!

Le Dézelay, Zürich, Switzerland

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