Whether you’re reading this in Zürich, Brugge, New York or Dubrovnik, I think we can all agree… the weather has been anything but predictable lately.  We may have thought spring was on its way over here in Switzerland, but that quickly turned to cold temperatures, wind and rain once again.  Where to go for a burst of color when it’s nothing but grey outside ?  To the market, of course !

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I love finding goodies in my mailbox, whether it be a new magazine I am subscribed to, a book I ordered online, or better yet, surprises by way of a care package from my parents in New York City or a postcard with a simple “thinking of you” from a friend or family member around the world. Guy Trebay wrote a wonderful piece on the future of the postcard in this social media heavy world (Travel + Leisure, February 2010), and I too grow saddened at a world without traditional paper postcards, mailed with a licked stamp, arriving days or weeks after you’ve already returned home from that trip.  I send hand-written letters, use a filo-fax, make lists with a pencil and eraser, have vintage postcards and paper photos on my wall and love checking out the fun, new stamps at the post office. And of course, I send postcards on my travels. Read the rest of this story >>

I’m normally at the Bürkliplatz market every Tuesday and Friday morning. And busy playing in the kitchen trying a new dessert recipe or photographing my latest chocolate tastings. But not when I have a rather critical deadline for a huge project that demands my every minute. I have had the pleasure of working on a very sweet project for the past two months – one that I’ll certainly share here later. Aside from a quick break to see the Burning of the Böögg, I?ve been mostly at my desk. But for now, with most of the work behind me, it was time to step away from my computer and enjoy the beginning of spring in Zürich.

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With family visiting us from France for a few days, we wanted to pick a destination that was as Swiss as we could find.  During our past year in Zürich, talking to locals and travelers and reading about the different regions in Switzerland, all signs pointed to Appenzell.  Narrow, picturesque streets, delicious Swiss delicacies, mountains in the background and a traditional way of life.

Just south of St Gallen, near our Brunch on the Farm for the National Day, we found ourselves looking up at pure green, rolling hills, undulating into the distance with grazing cows, farm stands, barns and only tractors on the roads.  The tiny town of Appenzell was set against this scenery, just as beautiful with its painted houses, decorative facades and abundance of colorful Swiss flags seemingly filling the streets.

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One thing I love about Zürich is the omnipresence of both the Swiss and Zürich canton flags.  Hanging from buildings and homes in the old town and all across the city, along the lake and river, perched proudly on cars and trams, patches sewn into locals’ clothing, bags and other accessories.  So you can just imagine my delight during the Swiss holidays when these flags show up in even more guises.   They blow in the wind on top of churches, and food products are cooked or baked into the shape of the Swiss cross or in the colors of red and white.  Yesterday, August 1st, was the national holiday here, commemorating the Helvetic Confederation’s 718th birthday.

430 farms across the country opened to the public for the holiday with a “Brunch on the Farm.” You reserve a spot, pay around CHF 20 and can enjoy the setting, food, music and any other festivities. We chose a farm with traditional production methods (and animals for my 4 year old nephew to pet!) in the canton of St. Gallen, towards the Austrian border.  It was a beautiful drive from Zürich (about an hour), with a truly representative landscape of Switzerland – rolling green hills, so smooth and clean, cows grazing upon them, their bells swaying as they moved about, fields of sunflowers and the entire landscape dotted with the red and white of the Swiss flag.  My favorites were the signs off the sides of the road, letting us know we could stop at any time to pick up fresh berries, plums, sunflowers or eggs.  Using a system that perhaps might not work as well in the United States – you take what you want and leave money for it.  Stands unattended, prices marked, functioning on the honor code.  What do you think of that?!

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Today I wasn’t thinking about where I have just been – Baden-Baden in Germany’s Black Forest and then New York City.  Nor where I’m heading next: Venice, Italy and Croatia’s Istria region.  Today was all about home, and enjoying Zürich.  Especially since the sun was shining with a blue sky behind it; the flowers are growing taller, more vivid and abundant; and the profile of the Alps far in the distance would have stopped you in your tracks, it was so white and clear.  All that, plus the city has gone flag crazy!  All year long, Zürich’s old town has the red and white flag of Switzerland, as well as the blue and white one of the canton Zürich proudly on display.  In my opinion, it adds a unique charm to the area. Coming back today after a week away, an explosion of even more flags could not be missed.

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And so it was, my regular visit to Zürich’s Bürkliplatz market, of course way before 11am to avoid the- well, you know who!  I chatted with a few market vendors and asked about those intimidating Market Police and the funky 11am fine.  Turns out the market has a deal with local shop owners, which makes rather good sense.  Otherwise, they would hang around all day long and potentially hurt local businesses.  Now as far as the fine goes, this one had several readers wondering… just how much?  CHF 50 !  50 Swiss Francs the first time, and if you really can’t keep your hands off those cauliflower after 11am, well the fine goes up from there!

Luckily I was there real early, as is usually the case, and had plenty of time to pay a visit to my fruit and vegetable guy, swing by and pick up a rustic baguette from my bread ladies, as well as the day’s fresh catch from my fishmonger.  Most of all, I simply enjoyed strolling through what was a rather lively and full market.  Seems that the harsh winter season is slowly saying good-bye, and plenty of flowers and seasonal produce are saying hello.  Nothing like bright tulips and promising bulbs to assure you that spring is not far away.

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After waxing poetic about the beauty of Switzerland’s gray skies, which dominate throughout the entire winter, what was this?  Just yesterday, there was a perfectly blue sky, not a cloud in sight, not nearly freezing temperatures and the streets of Zürich overflowing with people, reminiscent of the summer’s wild Street Parade.  You’d think I put my summer album in Photoshop and simply added a few jackets here and there, and whitened the mountains in the distance a bit.  Restaurants with tables outside filled, people sitting in the sun reading, families picnicking, friends playing catch with a frisbee or kicking around a soccer ball.  Runners like myself taking advantage as well, no need for extra layers, hat or gloves – just a bandana to wipe the sweat from my brow.

And what perfect timing for that beautiful weather.  Perhaps a thank you is in order – to the Mardi Gras gods of course!  It’s Carnival here in Switzerland, Fasnacht as they call it. And I know, I know, Zürich is not quite the most happening spot for Carnival.  Better off partying the nights away in Lucerne or admiring the customs and traditional music in Basel.  That will be Fasnacht 2010 for me.  And I will be there, at 4am in Basel when it all begins… next year.  This year, I stayed loyal to my new hometown.  Carnival in Zürich it was.  And while it may not live up to Rio di Janeiro or New Orleans, or even its fellow Swiss cities, there was still fun to be had, lots of loud music to enjoy, colorful costumes of all sorts to gaze at and as always, tasty delights to devour.

The gray skies came back for today’s parade, but I don’t think anyone noticed.  They were all too busy admiring each other’s creative outfits, fun makeup and props.  Each group that marched through the old town had a specific theme and costume to go with. Crowds lined the street to watch, many dressed up themselves, the theme there being “anything goes.”  Put a puppet on your head, and you’re ready for Fasnacht!

Children took part as well, some dressed up like the adults, marching along in the parade.  Others watched, dressed up as clowns, various animals or simply wearing funny wigs.  No matter the outfit, they were all armed with confetti!  Just like Bern’s Onion Festival, kids had their hands at all times in huge bags of colorful confetti.  They threw it on the groups marching by in the parade, on their parents and friends and on just about everyone that came within a 10 foot radius!

And oh the food!  Any festival or event in Zürich is a good excuse to fill the streets with yet more wurst stands, tables piled high with candied nuts and cakes, raclette stands and large vats of Glühwein.  Just make sure to get your fill on Fasnachtchüechli, rounds of dough flattened and deep fried, then covered in powdered sugar.  A Carnival specialty not to be missed,… nor properly pronounced!

The changing colors, the leaves falling from the trees and hiding the sidewalks as they gather throughout the day, the omnipresent chestnut stands – it is unquestionable what season it is here in Zürich.  In my opinion, the most exciting place to see the arrival of autumn is at the market.  Tables full of bright summer berries, juicy peaches and nectarines have been replaced by a panoply of root vegetables and a dozen varieties of apples.  Pumpkins and funny shaped squash take center stage.  The colors are just as vibrant, the produce just as fresh, a new selection simply exciting as ever.  Restaurants are posting their new fall menus, and home cooks are taking advantage of the new fruits and vegetables available. 

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Autumn is here!

Peterskirche, Zürich

Autumn is here.  Not just because of all of those chestnut stands spotted around town, but because of the gorgeous palette of colors that now dot the horizon.  There’s a subtle crispness in the air, letting us all know that winter is not far away.  The wind blows through the trees and their leaves fall like confetti.  They flutter about, making sounds like a bowl of Rice Krispies that never gets soggy – Snap Crackle and Pop all day long.  Walking through the dry leaves is like crushing potato chips beneath my feet.  I love the sounds and the colors of the fall season, and I’m especially looking forward to going to the market, to see what new produce has taken center stage.  I’m imagining multicolored carrots and squash with fun shapes and names, various root vegetables and real hearty breads.  Stay tuned.

For now, a small taste of autumn in Switzerland – a few of the colorful landscapes in three different cities, Zürich, Kempraten and Zug.  Next up will be a real taste for me, autumn at the market!

Kempraten, Switzerland

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